As you watch other surfers riding the waves, it’s easy to picture yourself being in their position. Who wouldn’t want to experience the biggest adrenaline rush of their life surrounded by water, with wind blowing through their hair? It may look effortless when pros do it, but it takes a lot of time to rise to their level.
Surfing isn’t the kind of activity you can do casually, because it’s one of the most difficult and complex sports out there. If you want to try it, it’s important to really commit, have the patience of a monk and nerves of steel. Surfing requires a good core for balance, so you should try others similar sports when you’re grounded. Skateboarding is a good place to start before testing the waters. You should also be a decent swimmer because you’re probably going to fall over and over again.
If you’re looking for consistency and order, you won’t find them among the waves. Each one is different, strong and wild. No matter how much you train, it’s difficult to prepare for what’s coming. That’s why it’s best to find someone who already knows how to do it. Have them show you the ropes, help you pick the right board and ideal surfing spot. Their experience and encouragement will inspire you to chase the wave, even when catching it seems like an impossible task.